It was a perfect weekend in Bangkok. The weather was pleasant, we encounter no ill-intentioned cab drivers, and I received some genuine Thai generosity. I felt like I was finally over the hump, I was experiencing Bangkok not as a tourist, but as a local. The difference is subtle, but it makes all the difference!
The weekend started late Saturday morning. After an all-nighter on the bus from Kalasin, I arrived at Jo's apartment at about 4 am (this girl is truly a saint!). After catching a few hours of sleep, we set off to Khao San road in search of a bookstore. We heard about an international bookstore at which you could buy, sell, or exchange books in several languages. It's incredible. I never thought I would miss places like Barnes and Nobles, Borders, or Latitude 33 (LB Love), but I love bookstores. I love walking up and down the aisles and breaking the code of judging a book by its cover. I love browsing the spines, looking at all the lines that show how loved it is, and how many times its been read. I love the smell of the thin pages. God, no wonder I was an English major, right? Anyways, despite the incredible small size of this place, we spent a good amount of time in there. I ended up with two books, because sometimes you just shouldnt have to choose. The Other Bolyen Girl and Frankenstein. Such an unlikely pair. But I find that my book cravings are unpredictable, and it is always better to have options.
That night, we reconvened with the larger group, including the birthday girl Sarah! We headed over a few blocks from our hostel to an Indian restaurant. Curry cravings can be fierce... With our resident curry expert Susan close at hand, we ordered several dishes that came to the table in tiny silver bowls filled with all sorts of colorful liquids. Delicious! And, did you know, that Indian curry and Thai curries are very different... oh the things Susan can teach you :)
Sunday was probably my favorite day in Bangkok so far. We woke up early and headed to the river. Tessa, Marin, and I boarded a river boat to take us upstream to a beautiful Temple known as Wat Pho. I had been waiting for this river boat experience for some time now, and I was not disappointed. As the boat comes to the dock, everyone blows on their whistles. The dock boy, the captain, even the ticket lady. It's piercingly loud. Then everyone clamors onto the narrow boat, grasping at the red rings that float down from the ceiling. And then, its off! Speeding up the river past little shacks covered in colorful laundry, floating lily pads and flowers, fishing boats, tour boats, and huge hotels the cast shadows over the passing boats. On the boat we were lucky enough to stand near a woman who spoke english, and she did not hesitate to point out all the important buildings to us, Thai people are so proud of where they're from. She also helped us find our stop, which was necessary since there aren't really any designated signs, just rickety little docks precariously jetting out from bigger rickety docks.
And then we came upon Wat Pho. I was told that the Grand Royal Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha would be the most beautiful things I'd see in Bangkok. But I found Wat Pho to be exceedingly peaceful and beautiful. First of all, there are no crowds of people bustling through the grounds, taking the necessary photos, and hurrying back onto buses. There were no tour guides with umbrellas, children whining about the heat, or lines to see a buddha so small, he makes the Mona Lisa look huge! No, Wat Pho was filled with serene Thai music, billowing incense, and strolling monks. There were fountains, trees, and statues.
It was so beautiful I almost forgot about the most important part: the reclining buddha. This is the pinnacle of Wat Pho. It is a huge, reclining, golden buddha with enormous feet that are inlaid with beautiful mother of pearl. Along the inside of the temple were several metal bowls. From the moment you stepped inside all you could hear was a curious "plink, plunk, plink" sound. Turns out, you can purchase special tokens and walk along the these bowls and dropping in your coins to send good wishes out to whomever you choose. I know what you're thinking, and yes I put some coins in for you!
Afterwards, the larger group met up again, this time in Lumphini Park. Equivalent to Central park in New York City, this oasis in the middle of Bangkok was the perfect place for a birthday picnic. Beforehand, we stopped off at Tops, a big chain supermarket, to gather some supplies. Can I just say that the very sight of imported cheese tickled me with pleasure! I always knew I was obsessed with cheese, but my word, I had missed it so much!
When we convened at the park, we all laid out our contributions. What a feast. Imported hard cheese, fresh juicy grapes, sweet crackers, german-thai salami, red wine, champagne, cookies, and some pad thai, because come on, we're in Thailand!
It was short and sweet, and afterwards we all needed a nap. But instead, we got jazzercise. That's right, in the middle of the afternoon people began assembling in all their spandex glory and commenced jazzercise. We couldn't help but join in! That music is just so darn catchy...
On monday, we headed over to JJ Mall for some bargain shopping. I found a dress that was handmade by the gentleman in the shop, i love that. For lunch we headed to the food court, and were pleased to find some lunchtime karaoke in session. Seriously, Thai people love their karaoke! In the afternoon we met up with an old friend of mine, a Miss Stephanie Morgan, for some story telling about her recent trip to Chiangmai and her time spent at an Elephant nature center. (When she gets home just bombard her with questions about it, she'll love you for it!)
Finally, Jo and I strolled over to Siam Paragon, the nicest mall in all of Bangkok. Like South Coast Plaza for all of you Souther California readers. But we weren't there to shop, no surprise we were there to eat! We headed down to the food court and I almost passed out. It was like Gelsons and Zanottos and Bristol Farms combined. Fresh fruits and vegetables, a salad bar that seemed endless, a cheese counter (ad you know we hit up the free samples more then is custom), and a little Italy corner that server fresh slices of Florentine style pizza. Any guess what I ate for dinner? Ha Ha
So as i headed to the bus station to take the night bus for the 10th time in 7 weeks, I felt such a sense of satisfaction that I completely forgot to BE ON TIME!!!! And i missed my bus. So, I played the "farang" card and looked lost and confused, gesturing to the other bus drivers that I did not understand where my bus had gone. I was rescued by some German-Thais who also spoke English...? They helped communicate to their bus driver what had happened. He promptly grabbed my hand and took me over to the ticket counter. After those two had a lively conversation that seemed to have nothing to do with my situation, he directed me over to a second bus driver, with whom he discussed me the "farang" at length. Finally, he dragged me onto his bus and told me to sit in the jump seat next to the driver... What? I was so confused. Then the German-Thais came to my rescue again, they explained that he would drive me to the rest stop that my bus would be stopping at and see if we could catch my original bus, otherwise he would drop me off in Kalasin. Can you imagine? I was in shock of the kindness as I took my seat and profusely thanked the driver, the bag boy, the stewardess and anyone else i thought might have decided that I could stay.
It is weekends like this and people like this that make me so happy to be in Thailand!
Oh, and happy birthday Sarah :)
xoxo
dena
another great post ..your desriptions are intense..I wan to be there with you...all my love ..mom
ReplyDeletehi dear! youre a wonderful writer. :) got your comment about peter pancake at jeps hahaha isn't he hilarious?! i named myself tinkerbell after he told me his name and he called me that all weekend, it was so cute. anyway i hope to see you down south and can't believe our time here is already halfway over...so crazy. SO CRAZY! love you and keep writing, Merry Christmas!
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